Tong No. 5: Red Burgundy
phone order only
Demystifying wine is what TONG is all about. This can sometimes be an arduous task, and it turned out that Burgundy was a hard nut to crack. It's a struggle to convince winegrowers to stop talking about terroir and instead concentrate on what really happens in the vineyards and the wineries.
This issue goes beyond the oft-repeated clichés about terroir and the enigmatic character of Pinot Noir. Like any other winegrowing region, Burgundy's vineyards have their problems. As Clive Coates MW puts it: "There are still too many over-productive vines from the wrong over-productive clones."
Oenologist Bruno Michéa's article about the different ways of making red Burgundy tries to demystify Pinot Noir. Terroir isn't everything and different wine styles are very much about the choices during vinification. $40.
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