Tong No. 2: Terroir
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There is no scientific evidence that points a direct link between soil and a wine's aromas. They are defined by grape varieties, and only develop during alcoholic fermentation. Does that mean terroir is in the fermentation? And how about the following? The New World has adopted the Old World concept of terroir and turned it into a lucrative business. If you make a single vineyard wine, the wine becomes exclusive and worth more. You can reinvest the profits and keep improving its quality. The wine-grower can say: "I was right when I chose this particular parcel to grow my vines on, it has fantastic terroir". But in fact, he's talking about money. And more money means more terroir.
In this issue, we haven't sought a definitive truth about terroir, but we've tried to provide a panorama of views on the subject. Too many questions remain, too many people think they have found the truth.
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